Wednesday

Where Squirrels Fear to Tread

In significant detail - we returned from the longhouse, had dinner at Top Spot then I did end up catching a boat from Kuching to Sibu (5hrs), a bus to Miri (7hrs) and a plane to Kota Kinabalu (0.83hrs). It seems one man has not one destiny (see previous post).

And here begins the story proper of one man's pursuit..... of that which he was pursuing. Continue reading and you are likely to think of Jules Verne, and you'd be right to do so. But be not fooled - this adventurous, exploratory, dangerous journey into unknown mysterious lands is no fairytale. Against all odds there was one man who dared go where thousands had been before. In doing so he would see further and reach deeper into his soul than he had ever imagined.....

Allow me to introduce myself - I am Sir Col. Charles Charles Esq. Scientist, apothocast and explorer. As I sipped my tea and buttered scones one spring morning I realised these little dough dumplings did not satisfy the thirst for adventure that ran like poison in my veins. I had tried many unorthodox methods but my senses told me to stop. I could'nt stand on the beach anymore - the only cure was expedition.

I had in my time....

- dodged stampeding wilderbeast and brawling elephants in Africa,

- dipped and danced like a goanna with the Aborigine,

- ducked and crawled through the cavernous underbelly of Indonesia &

- dived to the colourful depths of the Great Barrier Reef.

Without a new expedition the poison would surely tear me apart - like swallowing a bag of needles and pins. Obviously it was time to dodge the yellow bellied black snake, pierce the clouds and climb to incredible height - to stand above the world, look down upon it and to call out "CALL ME KING OF THE MOUNTAIN".

I'd heard rumours of such a mountain on the mysterious, little explored, isle of Borneo. So I purchased and gathered the neccessary equipment and provisions and began the expedition.

~~~~~~~~\__^^__/~~~~~~~~ On first sight of the towering mountain I was confident it would drain much of the poison from my body, and probably also my soul. I felt the need to change the undergarment. The local guide (whose services I had employed to accompany me to the summit) let out a little whimper on realising what he had signed on for.

The guide, Joseph, told me the mountain was created by supreme dieties and dragons guarding treasure troves of pearl necklaces. So I named the mountain "Kinabalu", meaning 'spirit resting place'.

Using the sextant, aquired from Debbie's Porn Shoppe, I estimated the highest peak to be at 4095.2m. I named it Low Peak, giggling for quite some time at the irony. Furthermore I applied an accute knowledge of mathematics to identify 4 climatic zones through which we would climb en route to the summit: 1. rich lowland dipterocarp forest, 2. coniferous forest, 3. alpine meadow, 4. stunted summit zone.

After offering a few words of encouragement to Joseph, we took the first step towards Low Peark. We immediately commenced a steep ascent, cutting a path through the dipterocarp. Soon, by exactly 2081m we entered climatic zone #2 and were engulfed by the low lying clouds. Each of the coniferous moss covered tree trunks precipitated out of the fog as we approached........ then dissolved again as we passed.

The atmosphere was eerie...the forest mute..but we were not alone - pitcher plants of the largest size and varying variety hung silently, poised to leach life from the next inquisitive victim. Passive predators. Moisture coalesced on the yellow, white and pink petals of 1200 species of orchids, smattering the forest's limbs. And impressive boquets of rhododendron appeared infrequently.

(Joseph - Sabah)

The long hand of the pocket watch had completed two revolutions and we had stepped a mere 4kms (as measured on the Durawheel, pictured). The pressure differential across my atuned ear drums indicated we were at 2741m elevation. The tall foliage was beggining to thin. Small shrubs characteristic of the alpine meadow climatic zone abounded. Pretty toenail sized flowers bloomed from many branches.


Black eyed wrens and Grey Drongos danced silently in the sparse short bonsaique trees. The cloud had blown by momentarily and I remarked to Joseph "I can see clearly now". After catching his breath he proposed it would be a bright bright sun shiny day for our reaching the summit.

We pushed on past 2900m....30000m.............3068m........................... .... . ..3069m.. The thin air is taxing but it is also an incredible voyage for the thig and calf muscles, with not one step being at the same elveation as the last - the only way is up, baby. The effect of the altitude on Joseph was a concern. At one stage we saw a rainbow coming out of the clouds at the end of which he professed to see a pot of gold! I had to slap him on the cheek a few times before he agreed that, rather than gold, it was actually just some silly looking, unusually caring, bears with various pictures embroided on their stomachs.

Something darted across the track in front of us! We both froze. What dangerous beasts lurked in the dense undergrowth? Hearing a scampering to the right we turned to see a small hutch of squirrels playing and foraging in a twisted system of roots. It was likely that this twisted system of roots was central to their species' survival - we encountered many score more as further we climbed.
Two more revolutions of the time piece and we were at 3300m. Joseph's incapacity to carry on safely was unquestionable. I decided we would rest the afternnoon and night to allow him to recuperate and aclimatise. Reclining high on the mountain we admired the view down the steep bushy valley we had just come up.

Above we could see the vegetation end sharply and above that a granite wasteland leading to a couple of peaks - the highest being our destination - Low Peak. As the sun's rays dimmed I questioned a look of fear on Joseph's face - "Do you have a Fear of the Dark?" His reply was short but clear. "He who upsets spirits of ancestors will die by dragon's breath*". He continued to explain that a gift to the spirits was required for safe passage. A sacrifice was reccomended.

* Old jungle saying

It was a simple request to fulfill and would pass the afternoon. We ceremonially executed a squirrel using the sharpest blunt edge of the sextant (I had brought no cutting utensils). Joseph recited a traditional local prayer then I executed another nine (9) just to be sure. This site I named "Panar Laban" - meaning 'place of sacrifice' in the local dialect. After the busy afternoon we dozed to sleep.

We awoke under a full moon at 2:03am GMT. Howling in excitement we set off hoping to welcome the sun at the summit. Onwards the elevations are approximate as the sextant no longer functioned accurately. 3668m marked the edge of the vegetation and near 7kms of ascent. We were forced to scramble up and along steep faces of onion skin granite. Our heads popped up over above a crest at 3990m. Low Peak was in sight - 800m away through a smooth wide grey granite valley - like another world.



An icy wind ripped at our naked flesh as we arduosly staggered across the moonscape. Legs felt like wet tree trunks and our hearts pounded furiously like a 24cyl Diesel engine at extraordinary rpm. Joseph had to stop every 10 paces to avoid catastrophic internal combustion. I could hear his knees grinding with every purposeful step. He was in bad shape.

I offered continuos encouragement to boost his morale and help him in what was an epic mental battle. I relayed stories of my time in the Galapogos where i met an old wise tortoise who could spoke but 6 words to me - "slow and steady wins the race".
At last the tip of Low Peak was within reach. I summoned all the little energy and breath remaining and with great courage grabbed hold of Joseph's shoulder and pulled myself past that shell of a man to stand proudly aloft the Kinabalu Mountain! The sun rose in a curtain of spectacular rich orange. This was a great day. I Sir Col. Charles Charles Esq. had conquered. I looked down at the clouds, the ocean and the world and said 'hey Joseph, call me king of the mountain!"


A fresh wind blew past my lips, carrying my softly sung words down the mountain to all the lands, some near, some far far away......


So, so you think you can tell
Heaven from Hell, blue skies from pain.
Can you tell a green field from a cold steel rail?A smile from a veil?
Do you think you can tell?
And did they get you to trade your heroes for ghosts?
Hot ashes for trees? Hot air for a cool breeze? Cold comfort for change?
And did you exchange a walk on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?

How I wish, how I wish you were here.

We're just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl, year after year,
Running over the same old ground.
What have you found? The same old fears.

Wish you were here.....

Excess

(n, ek-ses):
1. a quantity much larger than is needed.
2. going beyond what is regarded as customary or proper.

It is rare to find a truly hot meal here on the sidewalks of Malaysia. Typically, cooked dishes (nasi goreng, satays, 'meat' etc) are served luke warm or stone cold - they could do with warming the plates. Or maybe fire is not as hot here in the tropics.

So I treated myself and it was nice to be nibbling on a hot meal after the gruelling Mt Kinabalu summit conquering bonanza (more on this to come). Such an expedition with great physical demands leaves a man feeling....hungry.

I must admit chewing on the last two slices it was getting hard to breath (not indifferent to being at altitude on the mountain), but I couldn't walk out of the restaurant in shame. So I chewed those last two pieces, with a smile on my dial, then washed it all down with the 2nd glass of Pepsi.

I chuckled to myself as I left - having just eaten my share, twice, for a mere $6.



Pizza Hut's answer to the McDemon Meal.

Sunday

Top Spot

This King Prawn threatened to chop me up. So we got him & two of his mates deep fried in Thai Style Sauce and ate 'em, shell and all.

Crunchy. Tasty.

(Farzana & Tingilao - Kiwi)

The Top Spot food hall sits atop a carpark in Kuching. It is a swarming massive feeding frenzy. There's no lack of fish and crustaceon including stingray, and several other protected species no doubt. (In Sarawak there are two levels of conservation - "Protected" and "Totally Protected". It can be confusing). Finished the meel with some Air Mata Kuching in the bottles behind - effectively watered down prune juice.

Rumah Panjang (Longhouse) II

22 'doors' (families), 108 ppl, 1 jungle, 1 river = longhouse.
This is an Iban tribe longhouse, of the Dayak people of Borneo.

Each of the 22 sections has toilet/ washroom/ storage, fish pond, balcony, public area, family area, kitchen, laundry in that order of appearance.
Each family farms its own food etc.

The Chief is very friendly and welcoming, although he speaks little Malay or English. The tattoo on his neck signifies he has taken a head. I think he knows what's what.

Bau - Iban Chief, Tingilao - Kiwi

Our guide, Entalai showing us how to prepare lunch with natural plates, crockery and cutlery.
Making Trojans.
The kids come home from 'boarding school' for school holidays...and have to do homework on such topics as Robinson Crusoe and Phantom of the Opera. English, Science and Maths are taught in English. Kids can speak pretty good english, Malay and Iban. The oldies can speak Iban and a little Malay.

Saturday

Rumah Panjang (Longhouse) I

Aba (second from right- in disguise) drove us 4 hours to a river bank...
.. along the way I came across this toilet, complete with auto-enematic function...
We boarded a longboat and headed up river on THE best boat ride ever. The swift high water carried big logs and trees down its course. Our driver skillfully avoided these obstacles as well as many a whirl pool and rocky riverbank. The monsoon rain beat down upon us and the overhanging jungle grasped at our relatively little wooden boat as it powered up the trecherous churning highway.
At the Iban (tribe) Longhouse (one of the last all-wooden traditional longhouses in the area) we were greeted with a traditional dance.
...then partoked in traditional bamboo bongs.

Snakes and Ladders

Into the Borneo Hills we puttered in a mini bus that reminded me of the "I think I can" train from kids' storybooks. True to the story - it could. So inspired on the way up by Malaysian covers of 80s soft rock songs we captured the moment... ...then got on with the job of paddling several hours down Sungai (river) Sarawak. Picturesque, relaxing and adventurous..Indiana Jones.....is a movie star. Our guide wore Diadora snap pants and unfortunately would not be competitive in a game of Trivial Pursuit: Malaysian Flora/Fauna edition. He was however successful in identifying the deadly Anti-Gravity snake, captured on film below.

Tuesday

Destiny

all is well hoorah.
had two rounds of delicious Kway Teow this arvo for a ridiculously low $2. then had it all squeezed out of me by a blind man giving 1.5hrs thai massage. crazy hurt factor - shin bones were on the brink of sublimination due to excessive point loading. Cyril, my French accomplice, confessed to being close to crying - I concurred. Had to have another noodle dish after to recuperate. Been drinking plenty of Milo for strong bones - lucky.

tommorrow I'll discover my destiny - either in a longhouse for three days looking rather out of place, sans body modification jewelry.... or on a boat trip to Malaysia's equivalent of Tortega followed by a 5hr bus ride north to link up with a plane to Kota Kinabalu - Trains, Planes and Automobiles style except not cos John Candy couldn't make it - lucky cos I have no need for shower curtain rings.

Keep to the shadows.....

The Four Food Groups

BBQ Corn w/ Salt and Milk Spray
(Igor - Slovenia)


Pygmy Banana
(Brahim - Holland)


Pork
(Babe - Malaysia)



Noodles
(Maggi - Maggi)


and if that's not enough there's more shops that are sure to satisfy...

Bako N.P. - East Malaysia















Waiting for the wrong bus.
We were 20mins late for the correct bus but were still on time.
2nd bumpiest bitumen road in the world.



Short boat ride down river to Bako N.P. Home of unforgiving jungle, long nosed monkeys, tourists, mudskippers and ruthless carnivores (see image).

Sky blanketed with grey haze - farmers burning fields in Kalimantan.

Sweat like it's raining.

Saturday

Changi

According to Vincent Vega you can buy a beer at Maccas in Amsterdam. In Changi you have to settle for a massive cup of iced Milo.

Phantom comics, like the Ghost Who Walks himself, are illusive in these parts.

Thursday

Sniffing around

Just marking the territory with urine and faeces